Email this page

Correspondents' Journal

September 23, 2003

After a month in the United States visiting friends and family and speaking publicly about our experiences, we returned to Iraq via Amman, Jordan.

The journey from Amman to our home in Baghdad reminded us of the harsh conditions endured daily by the people of Iraq. While Iraqis are denied access to flights into Baghdad, we were able to book passage on an air service used exclusively by international nongovernmental organizations (INGOs).

In order to avoid attack by surface-to-air missiles, the pilot of our 18-passenger plane used a spiral procedure, banking at a 45-degree angle from 23,000 feet to land at Baghdad International Airport. The landing resembled a theme park ride.

Arriving at the makeshift terminal, we learned that our driver would be delayed for more than two hours. The airport road was temporarily closed, after an improvised explosive device was discovered. We therefore accepted a ride with another INGO group, and watched as a number of civilians donned helmets and bulletproof vests for the trip into town.

On the way home, the UN security channel buzzed with a warning that a car bomb had been reported in the vicinity of the Ministry of Health. Several days later, the INGO who had given us the ride home, had their car hijacked at gunpoint.

Guarded Optimism

There is a guarded optimism amongst the Iraqis we've encountered since our return. With a significant increase in the presence of well-armed Iraqi police on the streets of Baghdad, and less random gunfire, many people are hopeful that their country has finally turned the corner and conditions will begin to improve. Opinions vary widely.

Iraqis remain frightened of falling victim to the increasingly well-organized criminal gangs. Murder, theft, and kidnapping continue. An associate at an Iraqi NGO spoke to us of the kidnapping-for-ransom of her brother. Upon his recent release, another family member was kidnapped, and she has just learned of the kidnapping of a business associate.

Faced with this continuing crime wave, parents are apprehensive about sending their children to school, which is scheduled to reopen in early October. Although several kidnapping gangs have been apprehended, others have risen to take their place in this lucrative business. Few cars or people traverse Baghdad's roads after early evening, for fear of banditry.

Although the Coalition Provisional Government (CPA) has begun hiring day laborers at $2.50 per day to clean up city streets and parks, unemployment continues over 50 percent. Power outages remain a daily burden. Our neighborhood has electricity for only twelve hours a day.

In conversation with Iraqi contractors and businessmen, we find widespread fear that recent decisions to open Iraq to outside investors and privatization will leave little in the way of opportunity for impoverished Iraqis. Some suggest that new laws allowing foreign investment are a further assault on the Iraqi people and will inevitably backfire on the CPA. [Editor's Note: The U.S.-selected Governing Council and the CPA recently announced that-except for the oil industry-all of Iraq's economy will be open to outside investment, with no requirement for local partners or participation. This could entirely cut out local Iraqis, who do not currently have the assets to participate in the privatization of their economy, which was tightly controlled by Saddam Hussein's regime.]

Baghdad's land and housing costs are also spiraling.

Somber UN gathering

Several days ago, the UN resumed its weekly NGO briefings, amidst the memory of fallen friends and colleagues. The somber gathering-held in a tent as repairs continue on the headquarters building-began with a security briefing.

The UN security officer instructed us to flee to the bunkers at the sound of gunfire, hit the ground and lie flat if the compound is attacked with mortars, and switch off radios and cell phones in the event of a bomb threat.

The officer warned that Iraq remains a war zone and the UN doesn't see any change in the foreseeable future. The UN's international staff has been significantly reduced amidst continuing security concerns, seriously impeding its capacity to operate programs. The most recent suicide car bombing outside UN headquarters will further impede humanitarian efforts throughout Iraq.

In our absence, several homes on our street were rented to an assortment of groups, including a Christian political party, Korean businessmen, an Iraqi NGO, and representatives of an Australian church. Our new neighbors arrived with five private guards, for a total of eight guards on this small, residential street of two-dozen homes.

In a reassuring sign of traditional hospitality, our old Iraq neighbors offered plates of fruit and dates upon our return. Although the scene here is rather chaotic and dangerous, most Iraqis we've talked with believe that conditions are improving. Though unemployed and down on their luck, people continue to hold onto hope. All in all, it is good to back amongst our Iraqi friends and neighbors.

- Rick McDowell

^ Top of page